[OklaHemi]

Procedure:

Cluster:
Unlike the 02-05 cluster, the 06-08 has only 5 lights in it. And they are all exposed on the backside. No modification to the bases or cluster is required. This is a plug and play swap. No need to disassemble the cluster or needles either. There is a small bit of hot-spotting, but it's not that noticeable if you're not looking for it. Simply Remove the cluster and flip it over. Each of the 5 bulbs will come out with a quarter turn. Put the new ones in their place. NOTE: LEDs are polarized. Plug it all in and check the bulbs to make sure they work before reassembling the dash. If a bulb doesn’t work, pull it out, turn it 180° and put it back in. That’s all that’s to it with the cluster.
NOTE, if you start your truck without all 3 of the harnesses plugged into the cluster, you’ll get a check engine light on for a few days. It’ll go away on its own.
If you want to change the gear shift and odometer displays to closer match your new blue LEDs, it’s not too difficult. You’ll need to disassemble the cluster to do this. You’ll want to take it to the workbench and get it on a lint free cloth to keep it from scratches and dust. Get it disassembled to the point where you can touch the printed gauge face. You do not need to remove the needles. The gauge face is attached to the plastic housing with a spray adhesive. Get two small pieces of wax paper a bit wider than the odometer window and long enough to extend from the top of the odometer and protrude an inch or so beyond the bottom of the housing. Also cut a piece of the #74 RoscoLux Gel sheet the same size.
What you need to do now is start to gently pry the face away from the housing in the area around the odometer. Use the x-acto knife to cut at the stringy adhesive as you pry. Sandwich the two pieces of wax paper together and start to work them into the opening you make. You should be able to see them through the odometer window. Pull the top piece of wax paper out enough to expose the odometer window. The wax paper creates a non-sticky slot to slide in the gel. It also keeps it clean and free of adhesive as you’re working. Now, start to slide the blue gel in between the wax paper sheets. Get it lined up with the odometer window. Once it’s in place, pull out the back piece of wax paper, and push it down. It should get stuck in place from the adhesive. Then pull out the other wax paper piece. And press down on the gauge face to get it all stuck together. Once this is done, use the knife to trim the edge of the film to the profile of the cluster face. You can reassemble the cluster and put it back in the truck now.


HVAC Control:
There's 3 lights in this module. Use the B8.5Ds again here. You’ll need a bit more creativity here though. You’ll have to disassemble this module. Remove it from the radio bezel with the 4 screws. Then take off the knobs. Then remove the screws and separate the back from the housing. Inside you’ll see a clear plastic light pipe. This guides the light from the bulbs to the face of the display. Make a piece of doubled up wax paper to fit the entire inside of the front face. Poke the 3 holes for the knob shafts in the paper. Slide this paper loosely between the light pipe and the face of the display. It should be closer to the cup like parts of the light-pipe than it is to the face. Reassemble and you’ll be all good.


4x4 switch and Headlight switch:
The procedure for both the 4x4 switch and headlight switch is very similar. This part is NOT PLUG AND PLAY. Board level soldering experience is very helpful here. Remove both of these from the dash and bring them to the workbench. You'll need a electronics vise and good soldering iron for this part. First, remove the screws from the back side of the module. Then holding it with the buttons/knob facing down, remove the back of the assembly. You'll be left with the back half of the assembly with the circuit board in it all full of dielectric grease. On both modules you'll see a small bulb in a square white housing.
This is the point of no return! Unless you have a hot air rework station (and most of us don’t) Grab the white part with a pair of pliers and gently rock it back and forth until it breaks free. If you do have the rework station, you’ll already know what to do here. This will leave you with two solder pads underneath where the bulb housing was.
I used WLED-X LEDs for this part. You need to remove the LED, resistor, and diode from the base. You'll take this WLED bulb and straighten the leads out. Then using a pair of pliers, gently squeeze the base where it meets the LED itself. Do this a few times, from all sides, and it'll break the glue holding it together. Then you can grab the LED and pull it straight out of the base. Leave the resistor and diode attached to the LED, but trim the leads to about 3/16". Bend the remaining tails 90 degrees toward each side. you'll solder these tails to the pads on the PCB that you exposed earlier from under the old lamp housing. Polarity does matter. I can't remember which way each was supposed to be. Plug in the board to the truck harness and test before doing all the reassembly to make sure you have the polarity correct. If you get it backwards, just pull it back apart and reverse the contacts.


Rear Sliding Window Switch
This is the hardest to disassemble. I had a very hard time getting the switch out of its bezel, and then again, to get the switch itself apart. You have to be careful to not break the plastic tabs. It's just a matter of wedging in little screwdrivers until you get it to pop out of the bezel. Then repeat again to get the switch itself open.
Once it's open you'll see a bulb soldered to two contacts in the center of the switch. Unsolder this bulb to remove it.
Use one of the 3mm bare LEDs for this. Solder a 470 Ω to the shorter leg of this LED. Clip both the resistor and LED lead to about 3/16” and solder them together.
Again, polarity matters, but this time you don’t have a diode to protect the LED. Don’t get this one backwards. Use a multi-meter to check the polarity of the contacts. You can plug it in to the harness and read the DC voltage across the two contacts. If it reads negative voltage, swap the test leads on the contacts. The contact with your black multi-meter probe on it is the contact that gets the resistor side of the LED. Now after you've tested everything for proper polarity, put it back together.


Overhead Console:
Use a small tip screwdriver and pry out the map light lenses. Remove the map light bulbs. There are two torx screws to remove. Once these are out, the rest of the assembly will pop off. You’ll see the 3 bulbs in the back of the black electronics module. Pull out the bulbs with a quarter turn. The 3 Neo bulbs go in here. Again, test for proper polarity before reassembling. Now remove the black electronics module from the bezel. Carefully remove the smoked plastic lens over the computer display (FYI, this display is a Vacuum Fluorescent Display or VFD). Cut a strip of the RoscoLux #74 gel to the same size of the glass face of the VFD. Give the face of the VFD a good cleaning with a lint free cloth. Don’t use any liquid cleaner. Next use some good quality clear tape, and tape the gel in place. Reassemble the module, then put it back in the bezel and put it back up.
I also switched the festoon bulbs to LEDs. The 6 High Power LED bulbs from superbrightleds.com do a very nice job in the map and dome lights. Only one initial problem though. When the truck is off, you can’t tap the light and have it come on. It works with the door open, and if you tap it while running, but not when the key isn’t in the ignition. To overcome this, solder the 100Ω resistor across the ends of the bulb. If you use a resistor with too low of a wattage rating, it will buzz when the lights dim. It stopped buzzing at 1 watt in mine. Make sure this resistor floats free in the housing, and don’t let it touch the plastic. It gets a bit hot, which is normal, but you don’t want melting plastic. It actually gets about just as hot as the original bulb that was in there. Now you can put the lenses back in and you’re done with the overhead.