BMRbrnSNRbrd's 2010 CC Sport build thread

[myoung84]

It still does it with ESP fully disabled. Could still be the brakes taking control.

[Okiespaniels]

I will find out,,,because I can tell you mechanicly there isn't anything internally in a open diff that wil do this with any kind of consistency. That's why it's open.

[BMRbrnSNRbrd]

I did some more research and found that I definitely have an open differential. When I did the burnout in the video, I had completely removed all traction control by pulling the ABS Pump fuse, so it wasn't done by the traction control. The only person that offered an explanation as to why I was spinning both on dry pavement with an open diff and no traction control simply stated something to the effect of "That's Hemi power!" That, of course, was no help.

I'm still very torn on what to order.

[BMRbrnSNRbrd]

Oh, and Morgan I debated the JBAs but just can't see paying another $230 for the same thing. Sure, the BBKs keep getting pushed back, but they will be available eventually. I could get coated BBKs for $400 or coated JBAs for $630...just not worth it to me.

[Okiespaniels]

Originally Posted by BMRbrnSNRbrd I did some more research and found that I definitely have an open differential. When I did the burnout in the video, I had completely removed all traction control by pulling the ABS Pump fuse, so it wasn't done by the traction control. The only person that offered an explanation as to why I was spinning both on dry pavement with an open diff and no traction control simply stated something to the effect of "That's Hemi power!" That, of course, was no help. I'm still very torn on what to order.

Were you doing a power brake? I don't know what pulling the ABS pump fuse will do.
Anyway...if you have a limited slip or locking differential you won't have to worry about it. The point I was trying to make is the extra torque output from a hi stall converter makes a non limted slip diff even more useless in racing or performance applications. So perhaps that might be a future purchase before the converter.

[myoung84]

Originally Posted by BMRbrnSNRbrd Oh, and Morgan I debated the JBAs but just can't see paying another $230 for the same thing. Sure, the BBKs keep getting pushed back, but they will be available eventually. I could get coated BBKs for $400 or coated JBAs for $630...just not worth it to me.

IMO, they aren't the same, JBA has a better, higher quality product. You can get the JBA ceramic coated headers at Autoanything for $555.80 or the stainless non-coated for $439.35. Use promo code "Loyalty" for 15% off. Since JBA uses stainless instead of mild steel, you could get away with non-coated headers. Personally, I think the extra $155.80 on top of the BBK's is worth it for the stainless steel with ceramic coating, especially since the JBA's have been proven to be a great product.

BBK has done nothing but disappoint, IMO. First they release headers that they say fit the new Hemi and when it comes up that ports don't match, they say it's fine to use them that way then mysteriously pull them off the market. Then you keep getting the run around on when they will be ready...

[BMRbrnSNRbrd]

I can honestly say I have no argument with that buddy.

[916Timmy]

You should bring your truck to the track Dave...that will show you a one wheel spin

[916Timmy]

As far as the headers go.....With the Jeep SRT-8 longtubes working...my 550 bucks is going to OBX longtubes and some good custom true duals!

[BMRbrnSNRbrd]

Originally Posted by 916Timmy As far as the headers go.....With the Jeep SRT-8 longtubes working...my 550 bucks is going to OBX longtubes and some good custom true duals!

Direct bolt on?