Uh oh...

[BMRbrnSNRbrd]

...yeah, I saw that too.

[916Timmy]

Big no no! I hope you saved money by doing all this swapping, you could have got gears for about 200 bucks. I would have gone to 4.10s for the trouble

[ramthis9501]

We've used car ramps with the jack stands plenty of times... its stable. Plus we have the floor jack under the axle now so its not going anywhere. And yes I saved alot more money then you think, at least $200

[Okiespaniels]

Originally Posted by myoung84 Um, I'm not too crazy about the jack stands on top of the ramps. Seems a little sketchy to me, I'd hate for your head to get crushed...

Originally Posted by DoubleTakeDodge I just saw this too and was about to say somethin. Be careful man!!! hate for you to get crushed by the ass end of your own truck!

Originally Posted by BMRbrnSNRbrd ...yeah, I saw that too.

Originally Posted by 916Timmy Big no no! I hope you saved money by doing all this swapping, you could have got gears for about 200 bucks. I would have gone to 4.10s for the trouble

I didn't say anything ...not that it would have mattered. Hell you can use bricks, pallets, cement blocks, even stacked 2x4's if you want...but I'm not gettin' under the farkin' truck!
I can only imagine the rave off my dad would've spewed on me or my brother if we'd have done that.
RIP pa, I got lots of stands...

I've never seen a set of steel ramps yet that can't be crushed...except ones I've welded braces into and then they weigh about 40 lbs each. It would probably be a good idea to take some of the money you saved and invest in a pair of 4t or 6t stands. Ok...enough said. The rear is under the truck and no one was killed...this time.



Tim...not to downplay 4:10s...but the difference between them and 3:92s is about 140 rpm @ 65 mph. Your factory tach is probably off that much!

[myoung84]

I have these from Northern Tool. They are HEAVY and at 28" lift height, they are big enough for just about anything. I've used them the front and rear of the wagon and they are great.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...4819_200304819

[ramthis9501]

Well boys, shes done and on the ground


I shot the axle with some spray paint just to shine it up a bit



Also painted the drums the same color silver


Took it for a drive and it is AMAZING how awesome it drives now. It used to be a workout getting it to 3000 rpm, now its getting there in 1st gear just lightly touching the pedal.

Went down the highway... Here's the numbers
65 mph - 1950 rpm
70 mph - 2050 rpm
75 mph - 2100 rpm

Give or take 15-25 rpm on that and it's about what it's running at.

Only thing is that the brake light and abs light are staying on... anyone know why?

I reset the pcm but it didn't help.

Overall I'm really happy with it!!

[Okiespaniels]

Did you hook up the sensor plug on the rear diff housing?

Did you let the master cylinder drain out? Your rear brakes might need re bleeding... you may have to let them free bleed (open up bleeders and not pump pedal) until the ABS system is filled. This may take some patience and some extra fluid. Might have to re do the fronts as well!

Oh..make sure you retorque your U-bolts in about 75-100 miles and then around 150.

[ramthis9501]

Yeah I think the best thing to do is swap out speed sensors because the speedo is actually acting funky to. Tomorrow, we're gonna have to back the brake shoes off because they're pretty tight against the drums. And that's probably when we'll re-bleed the brakes. Got plenty of brake fluid so it won't be a problem.

[BMRbrnSNRbrd]

Very nice! Now if I could just find a new full rearend for my truck with 3.92s and LSD.

[Okiespaniels]

You may have to reset your speedo for the tire size too. My conversion math suggests you're about 10 mph slower than your speedometer indicates.