I plan on eventually running 4.10s.

Yes..thats good Dave but you didn't answer my questions LMAO!

Here's why I asked...pardon me for repeating myself. TC's because of thier torque increase when they are "flashed" pretty much turn one legged rears into a one legged smoke show. You really need the power to go to both tires.

And my first question was what kind of stall speed were you considering.

First question: I'm not sure, I'm working on that now. I'm guessing around 2600.

Second question: There has been a debate as to what rearend I have. I know it has 3.55s, but I'm not sure if it's posi or open. I believed it was open, but then I did this burnout:


And everyone swears that is impossible with an open diff.

I know I'm joking. But 4.10's would be the absolute best for your truck imo.

If you burn both your rear tires away from a dead stop, you might be....no you are..no, no, you most likely have a sure grip.
If you send your vin to ram they can send you back your build sheet and remove all doubt.
I'd vote for a 3,000 stall. 2,600 doesn't do much.

http://www.dodge.com/wccsapp/univers...ull&category=R

Click that link and put in your info. You should get an email back by tomorrow afternoon or evening with the full build sheet on it.

Get some JBA headers!

You can smoke both tires with an open diff. My Charger has an open diff and will burn them both.

I suppose if the surface was wet enough...theoretcly it doesn't work that way. I suppose a bit of brake pressure could fool the open differential long enough to lock the spiders.

It's an old hot rodders trick...results vary.

Nope, dry pavement, anytime I want, even from a roll. From everything I can find, the SRTs didn't get LSD until 2010 so I'm 99% sure its open.

After researching your charger's specs I read about something called esp and braking control... on these of vehicles the brakes act as I described above...lightly slowing one spinning tire to transfer power to the other. It's also used on High end suvs and is designed to improve traction on less than ideal surfaces.

http://www.automobilemag.com/reviews...8/viewall.html

Also found this as well...

http://www.streetspecs.com/specs/Dod...rger/2009/SRT8

I am aware that the 2009 Challengers didn't have lsds...a major fax paus on Dodges' end.

It still does it with ESP fully disabled. Could still be the brakes taking control.

I will find out,,,because I can tell you mechanicly there isn't anything internally in a open diff that wil do this with any kind of consistency. That's why it's open.

I did some more research and found that I definitely have an open differential. When I did the burnout in the video, I had completely removed all traction control by pulling the ABS Pump fuse, so it wasn't done by the traction control. The only person that offered an explanation as to why I was spinning both on dry pavement with an open diff and no traction control simply stated something to the effect of "That's Hemi power!" That, of course, was no help.

I'm still very torn on what to order.

Oh, and Morgan I debated the JBAs but just can't see paying another $230 for the same thing. Sure, the BBKs keep getting pushed back, but they will be available eventually. I could get coated BBKs for $400 or coated JBAs for $630...just not worth it to me.

Were you doing a power brake? I don't know what pulling the ABS pump fuse will do.
Anyway...if you have a limited slip or locking differential you won't have to worry about it. The point I was trying to make is the extra torque output from a hi stall converter makes a non limted slip diff even more useless in racing or performance applications. So perhaps that might be a future purchase before the converter.

IMO, they aren't the same, JBA has a better, higher quality product. You can get the JBA ceramic coated headers at Autoanything for $555.80 or the stainless non-coated for $439.35. Use promo code "Loyalty" for 15% off. Since JBA uses stainless instead of mild steel, you could get away with non-coated headers. Personally, I think the extra $155.80 on top of the BBK's is worth it for the stainless steel with ceramic coating, especially since the JBA's have been proven to be a great product.

BBK has done nothing but disappoint, IMO. First they release headers that they say fit the new Hemi and when it comes up that ports don't match, they say it's fine to use them that way then mysteriously pull them off the market. Then you keep getting the run around on when they will be ready...

I can honestly say I have no argument with that buddy.

You should bring your truck to the track Dave...that will show you a one wheel spin :)

As far as the headers go.....With the Jeep SRT-8 longtubes working...my 550 bucks is going to OBX longtubes and some good custom true duals!

Direct bolt on?

Y true duals tho? Y not just run larger single pipe and save money

That's why I want to know if they are a direct bolt on. If they are, that's what I'm going to buy and just run the LTs to my Magnaflow Y pipe and leave everything from there back the same.

Well after having to cancel my header order it worked out very well. Two new mods are on the way!

The Jeep headers aren't a bolt in setup, they have to be done custom from the collector back. It will make better power and torque with two pipes when the go fast stuff goes on. 3" would be cheaper and easier, but the headers are set up to run duals. I will probably do 2.5" on each side and a nice X under the passenger side.

http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/show...ighlight=kooks

all this header talk, Dave we need to do mine soon. I'm tired of them sitting in my living room. they have been sitting there for a year now.

I'm down when you're down.

ok cool. as soon as I can find a magnaflow or bassani dual in dual out muffler we will do it. that's the last piece to my puzzle.

I received my new cross drilled and slotted rotors today and I am very impressed by them. They are just as nice as the set I had on my previous truck that looked and performed great.

Now my question is whether or not I should paint the brake rotor hub black or not. I would most likely use the same black Rustoleum paint I used on my rotors but I would hate for it to start chipping from wear and tear or taking the wheels on and off. Thoughts?

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/j...030_151553.jpg
http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/j...030_151601.jpg

Hm... That's a tough one... It would look awesome but I don't know of a paint that would really hold up well with the wear and tear. I say do it if you can find a good enough paint.

Here's how the rotors look stock...I'm thinking I need to figure something out:
http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/j...030_174511.jpg

Another package came in a bit ago as well:
http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/j...030_173823.jpg

Badass!

Hell yeah dude. Unit looks good.

I would throw some paint on them dude. Just something to show depth in the wheels.. I know it won't be much

But we are all about the little accents man.

sweeeeeeeeeeet

Looking good David!

Got the rotor hubs painted:

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/j...101_173215.jpg
http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/j...031_182354.jpg

Install tomorrow along with washing the truck and washing, claying, and waxing the wheels.

Looks good dude!

Very nice! I like that

That's where it's at Dave.. awesome.

spiffy

Awesome man looking good!